Drama
pretty much
equals dance in
Thai theatre,
and many of the
traditional
dance-dramas are
based on the
Hindu epic the
Ramayana (in
Thai, Ramakien),
a classic
adventure tale
of good versus
evil which is
known across
Southeast Asia.
The most
spectacular form
of traditional
Thai theatre is
khon, a
stylized drama
performed in
masks and
elaborate
costumes by a
troupe of highly
trained
classical
dancers. All the
movements follow
a strict
choreography
that's been
passed down
through
generations, and
each graceful,
angular gesture
depicts a
precise event,
action or
emotion which
will be familiar
to educated
khon
audiences. The
story is chanted
and sung by a
chorus,
accompanied by a
classical
phipat
orchestra.
Serious and
refined,
lakhon is
derived from
khon, but is
used to
dramatize a
greater range of
stories,
including
Buddhist Jataka
tales, local
folk dramas and
of course the
Ramayana. The
form you're most
likely to come
across is
lakhon chatri,
which is
performed at
shrines like
Bangkok's Erawan
and Lak Muang as
entertainment
for the spirits
and as a token
of gratitude
from worshippers.
Dancers wear
decorative
costumes but no
masks, and dance
to the music of
a phipat
orchestra.
Likay
is a much more
popular
derivative of
khon, with
lots of comic
interludes,
bawdy jokes and
over-the-top
acting. Most
likay
troupes adapt
pot-boiler
romances or
write their own,
and costumes are
often a mixture
of traditional
and Western.
Likay troupes
travel around
the country
doing shows on
makeshift
outdoor stages
and at temple
fairs.
Thai
boxing (
muay Thai)
enjoys a
following
similar to
football in
Europe: every
province has a
stadium and
whenever it's
shown on TV you
can be sure that
large noisy
crowds will
gather round the
sets in
streetside
restaurants and
noodle shops.
The best place
to see live Thai
boxing is at one
of Bangkok's two
stadiums.
There's a strong
spiritual and
ritualistic
dimension to
muay Thai,
adding grace to
an otherwise
brutal sport.
Any part of the
body except the
head may be used
as an offensive
weapon in
muay Thai,
and all parts
except the groin
are fair
targets. Kicks
to the head are
the blows which
cause most
knockouts. As
the action hots
up, so the
orchestra speeds
up its tempo and
the betting in
the audience
becomes more
frenetic.
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