Trekking in the mountains of northern Thailand - which is what brings most travellers here - differs from trekking in most other parts of the world, in that the emphasis is not primarily on the scenery but on the region's inhabitants. Northern Thailand's hilltribes, now numbering nearly 750,000 people living in around 3500 villages, have so far preserved their way of life with little change over thousands of years; visiting their settlements entails walking for several hours between villages. Around eighty thousand travellers now go trekking each year, the majority heading to certain well-trodden areas such as the Mae Tang Valley, 40km northwest of Chiang Mai, and the hills around the Kok River west of Chiang Rai. Beyond the basic level of disturbance caused by any tourism, this steady flow of trekkers creates pressures for the traditionally insular hilltribes. However, the effects of tourism are minimal in comparison to exploitation of tribes by lowland Thais, their lack of land rights and poor health provision and educational services. Most tribespeople are genuinely welcoming to foreigners, appreciating the contact with Westerners. Nonetheless, it is important to take a responsible attitude when trekking.
Trekking practicalities
The hilltribes are big business in northern Thailand: in Chiang Mai there are over two hundred agencies. Chiang Rai is the second-biggest trekking centre, and agencies can also be found in Mae Hong Son, Pai and Nan. On any trek, you'll need walking boots or training shoes, long trousers (against thorns and wet-season leeches), a hat, a sarong or towel, a sweater or fleece, plus insect repellent and, if possible, a mosquito net. On an organized trek, water, blankets or a sleeping bag, and possibly a small backpack should be supplied.
It's wise not to take anything valuable with you; most guesthouses in Chiang Mai have safes, but check their reputation with other travellers, and sign an inventory - theft and credit-card abuse are not uncommon. Trekkers have occasionally been robbed by bandits, although the Border Patrol Police have recently increased their activities to provide better security. If there is a robbery attempt, don't resist
Organized treks
Organized treks usually last for three days, have six to twelve people in the group, and follow a route regularly used by the agency. There will be a few hours' walking every day, plus the possibility of an elephant ride and a trip on a bamboo raft. Everybody in the group usually sleeps on the floor of the village headman's hut, and the guide cooks communal meals. A typical three-day trek costs B1500 in Chiang Mai, less in other towns, and much less without rafting and elephant rides.
Recommending particular agencies is difficult, as names change and standards rise and fall; word of mouth is often the best yardstick. If you want to trek with a small group, get an assurance from your agency that you won't be tagged onto a larger group. Meet the guides, who should speak reasonable English, know about hilltribe culture and have a certificate from the Tourism Authority of Thailand. Check how much walking is involved per day, and ask about the menu. Ask about transport from base at the beginning and end of the trek, which sometimes entails a long public bus ride. Before setting off, each trek should be registered with the Tourist Police in case of any trouble
Independent trekking
The options for independent trekking are limited, chiefly by the poor mapping of the area. Royal Thai Survey Department 1:50,000 maps cover a limited area, or try Hongsombud's Guide Map of Chiang Rai (Bangkok Guides) which includes 1:1000 maps of the more popular chunks of Chiang Rai province. You could also consult the maps at Chiang Mai's Research Institute , which mark the villages where people can stay. It's possible to find accommodation in hilltribe villages, where you can expect to pay at least B50 per night, possibly including dinner and breakfast (be wary of any food that's not cooked in your presence, as food poisoning is not uncommon). Alternatively, base yourself at one of the guesthouses set deep in the countryside, within walking range of hilltribe villages. These include Wilderness Lodge near Mae Suya ; Mae Lana Guesthouse at Mae Lana and Cave Lodge at Ban Tum .
Trekking etiquette
As guests, it's up to farangs to adapt to the customs of the hilltribes and not to make a nuisance of themselves.
" Dress modestly, avoiding skimpy shorts and vests.
" Before entering a hilltribe village, look out for taboo signs of woven bamboo strips on the ground outside the village entrance which mean a special ceremony is taking place and that you should not enter. Be careful about what you touch. In Akha villages, keep your hands off cult structures like the entrance gates and the giant swing. Do not touch or photograph any shrines, or sit underneath them. You'll have to pay a fine for any violation of local customs.
" Most villagers do not like to be photographed. Be particularly careful with pregnant women and babies - most tribes believe cameras affect the soul of the foetus or new-born. Always ask first.
" Taking gifts is dubious practice: writing materials for children are welcome, as are sewing needles, but sweets and cigarettes may encourage begging
